While a miter cut requires a miter gauge setting and a bevel calls for a table tilt, a compound angle cut is done with a combination of both settings. Click to see larger view Figure 3-15. Examples of assemblies done with compound miter joints. Any frame or open structure that has sloping sides requires a compound miter.
roof of a birdhouse or doll-house, a plant container with sloping sides, and a picture frame with sides that slope toward or away from the wall. Of all table saw operations, compound angle cuts are probably the hardest to do, not because of how they relate to sawing, but because the accuracy of the cut is so critical.
Here is a good procedure to follow: Adjust the miter gauge to the angle you need and make a test cut with the table set at “0”. Check to see if the cut is correct.
Take a stance that keeps you out of the line of cut and make a test pass without the workpiece and with the power off, so you can preview the best way to handle the operation. Here is a typical procedure, based on a four-sided frame and using the popular 60° work angle, which may be followed when doing compound angle work. Note: The work angle is the angle measured between your line of sight and the flat face of the frame. First decide the overall size of the frame and from this determine the lengths of the four pieces required.